Recently, during a lunchtime conversation, a friend mentioned that his spa was leaking. He told me the repairman had quoted him $1000 to fix it because "both pumps were leaking." Since I had some experience with spas and pumps, I told him not only that "spa repairmen tend to charge a lot" but that pumps could be bought online for a lot less than $500 each. I did a quick look via Google and found some examples ranging from $180 to $280 each. (He didn't know the brand or complete specs of the pumps at the time.)
Now, here is the first lesson. The repairman had said the pumps needed to be replaced, and I didn't even question that at first. I just shopped for pumps.
Lesson #1: Think through someone else's diagnosis and proposed solution before you accept it.
When I did some more thinking, I realized that a leaking pump means that the shaft seal in the wet end has failed and that the pump motor itself is still fine, as long as it runs as it should. So, I did some more research online and found some new wet ends for the pumps for about $70 each. I remembered replacing the wet end of a water pump once for about $50.
Lesson #2: Keep thinking and analyzing, even after you have apparently solved the problem.
While I was looking for a better deal on wet ends, it occurred to me that the real problem is that the shaft seal in the wet end was leaking, and that most likely the only thing that needed to be replaced was the shaft seal in each pump. A bit of research turned up prices for shaft seals in his brand of pump/wet end for about $8 to $16 each.
So, with plenty of You Tube how-to videos showing how doable the replacement of seals is, together with the free labor of a friend, we has reduced the cost of the repair from $1000 to under $40, even with tax and shipping--all by thinking things through.
But, you will say, what if you have no idea how spa pumps are constructed, so that you can think this problem down to a seal?
Lesson #3: Research the problem and get the knowledge that will allow you to think things through.
Rely on the experience of others who are familiar with the task you want to do. Check books (repair manuals) and web sites, of course, but why not go first to YouTube to see if someone has videoed the repair? I learned the technique of using two putty knives to free a sliding glass door from its rails that way. (The putty knives hold up the rollers so the bottom of the door can be pulled forward and out.)
Replacing the entire pump/wet end assembly would, of course, have solved the leaking problem, but that would be like replacing the entire car to solve a leaking radiator problem. Think granular; think down to the bottom. And save money.
Saturday, February 14, 2015
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Power Pressure Cooker XL Second Look Review
Now that I've had an opportunity to use the Power Pressure Cooker XL in various modes, I can offer a more experienced review.
My experienced judgment is--buy one of these pressure cookers. I've made soup, stew, cooked chicken, steamed vegetables, browned meat, and so forth. Here's what I like:
My experienced judgment is--buy one of these pressure cookers. I've made soup, stew, cooked chicken, steamed vegetables, browned meat, and so forth. Here's what I like:
- Unlike traditional pressure cookers, the Power XL does not emit steam during cooking. The pressure is apparently regulated by a temperature or pressure control that provides just the right pressure. If you don't want to wait until the steam pressure goes down as the unit cools, you can let the steam off manually at the end of the cook cycle.
- The cooking timer is built in. No need to set a separate timer and listen for the beep before you take the cooker off the stove. Instead, you set the timer on the cooker and it automatically switches to Keep Warm when the cook time is over.
- It's easy to clean. The internal pot comes out of the cooker shell and is non-stick lined. It can be put in the dishwasher or done in the sink.The internal pot is light weight and easy to handle.
- It's really flexible. Cook rice, brown rice, roasts, stews, soups, vegetables (the steamer function works great).
I use the Power Pressure Cooker XL about once a week. It has always produced a great meal.
What I would change:
- My greatest complaint is the lame and skinny cookbook that comes with the cooker. But it is the basic instructions that should be included. Example:
- Be aware that cooking times listed on a recipe reflect the time to cook AFTER the cooker has been pressurized. The time needed for the cooker to heat up and produce enough steam to pressurize the vessel can range from a few minutes to 20 minutes or more. Thus, "Steam vegetables in 3 minutes," means 3 minutes after the 15-minute warm up to steam.
In a word, you need to experiment with settings and cooking times (using the adjustable time button) to get the results you want. I made a delicious beef stew by setting the cooker to 30 minutes.
I must say I'm glad I broke my old pressure cooker (handle), which had been in the family for at least 30 years. I am very happy with this cooker.
Full disclosure: I purchased the Power Pressure Cooker XL at retail (while looking for a conventional model), and at no point was given any incentive or asked for a positive (or any other) review. Your experience may vary.
Saturday, January 17, 2015
ShaveMate Titan 6 All-in-One Disposable Razor Review
For a great, close shave and the convenience of built-in shaving cream for vacation or business travel, you might want to consider the ShaveMate Titan 6.
I have always thought that more than two blades was a gimmick in razors, because my experience with 3, 4, and 5 bladed disposables was not good. Those razors scraped and dragged and then clogged, making it difficult to clean them. The six blades of the Titan 6, however, are quite a bit narrower than the blades of the other disposable razors, and they are seemingly made of higher quality steel. If you shave everyday, you'll get a close, smooth shave and an easy-rinsing blade set. If you wait a couple of days to shave, you'll have a bit more skritchy shave, but ultimately still nice and close. The longer hairs do produce a bit of blade clog, however.
The shaving cream in the handle truly is "thick, rich" stuff, as the package says. It's the best shaving cream I've used in quite awhile. The downside is that, while the package says you'll get enough shaving cream for "a week or more," I got only four days' worth. However, it is likely that I am in the habit of using too much of the more watery stuff I usually use. (That's probably why it comes in such a big can.) So, by carefully proportioning the amount of shaving cream you dispense, it is possible to get a week's worth from the razor.
After four shaves, I am still getting a smooth shave with the feeling that the blades are still sharp. My wife even commented that I managed to get the hair right under my nose shaved close, something that the other razors I've used weren't doing.
Price: A three pack of Titan 6 razors is available on the company's Web site (www.shavemate.com) for $12 plus $3 shipping and handling, making the razors $5 each. If you get 10 shaves from each razor, that's 50 cents per shave. By comparison, Harry's Razors sells 8 blades for $31, designed to last two months, which also comes out to 50 cents a shave. Also by comparison, Gillette ProGlide razors are about $5.75 each, A Schick Quattro handle and two blades is about $8, with disposables less. Costco recently offered 26 Gillette disposables for $20, implying that each razor was good for two weeks, making those 26 blades a year's supply. If one lasts for two weeks, that's about 5.5 cents per shave, nearly one tenth the price. So, all in all, the Titan 6, while not cheap, is within the ballpark of other premium razors.
Recommendation. The shaving experience is great, and the shaving cream, while it lasts, is superior. I would use the Titan 6 for a travel razor. My frugality makes me hesitate to make it a daily razor after the current, test model gets dull. I will be comparing various razors together with their costs in future reviews. So stay tuned.
Full Disclosure: I was given a sample of a Titan 6 by the manufacturer for the purpose of review.
I have always thought that more than two blades was a gimmick in razors, because my experience with 3, 4, and 5 bladed disposables was not good. Those razors scraped and dragged and then clogged, making it difficult to clean them. The six blades of the Titan 6, however, are quite a bit narrower than the blades of the other disposable razors, and they are seemingly made of higher quality steel. If you shave everyday, you'll get a close, smooth shave and an easy-rinsing blade set. If you wait a couple of days to shave, you'll have a bit more skritchy shave, but ultimately still nice and close. The longer hairs do produce a bit of blade clog, however.
The shaving cream in the handle truly is "thick, rich" stuff, as the package says. It's the best shaving cream I've used in quite awhile. The downside is that, while the package says you'll get enough shaving cream for "a week or more," I got only four days' worth. However, it is likely that I am in the habit of using too much of the more watery stuff I usually use. (That's probably why it comes in such a big can.) So, by carefully proportioning the amount of shaving cream you dispense, it is possible to get a week's worth from the razor.
After four shaves, I am still getting a smooth shave with the feeling that the blades are still sharp. My wife even commented that I managed to get the hair right under my nose shaved close, something that the other razors I've used weren't doing.
Price: A three pack of Titan 6 razors is available on the company's Web site (www.shavemate.com) for $12 plus $3 shipping and handling, making the razors $5 each. If you get 10 shaves from each razor, that's 50 cents per shave. By comparison, Harry's Razors sells 8 blades for $31, designed to last two months, which also comes out to 50 cents a shave. Also by comparison, Gillette ProGlide razors are about $5.75 each, A Schick Quattro handle and two blades is about $8, with disposables less. Costco recently offered 26 Gillette disposables for $20, implying that each razor was good for two weeks, making those 26 blades a year's supply. If one lasts for two weeks, that's about 5.5 cents per shave, nearly one tenth the price. So, all in all, the Titan 6, while not cheap, is within the ballpark of other premium razors.
Recommendation. The shaving experience is great, and the shaving cream, while it lasts, is superior. I would use the Titan 6 for a travel razor. My frugality makes me hesitate to make it a daily razor after the current, test model gets dull. I will be comparing various razors together with their costs in future reviews. So stay tuned.
Full Disclosure: I was given a sample of a Titan 6 by the manufacturer for the purpose of review.
Monday, January 5, 2015
The Short Sticking Gas Station Scam and How to Avoid It
I was just checking the oil on my car when it reminded me of a gas station scam that has been played in the past. Now that so many gas stations are self-service, perhaps this scam is practiced less. But just for your information here is one way crooks will attempt to cheat you. It's called short sticking and is or was most common along interstate routes where drivers are covering a lot of miles in a day.
Short sticking. You're in the middle of nowhere when you stop for gas. You are delighted that this is a full-service gas station. The helpful attendant washes your windshield and checks your oil. Good thing, too, because you are a quart low. He shows you the dipstick and you can see for yourself that the oil level is at the bottom of the stick. Helpfully, the attendant sells you a quart of oil (at inflated prices--maybe twice what you'd pay anywhere else--but what can you do?) and installs it for free. He shows you the dipstick again and the oil level is right up where it should be. You drive away relieved and thankful that the problem was found and taken care of.
Rewind a minute. This scam is called short sticking because the attendant didn't put the dipstick in all the way, resulting in the appearance that the car was a quart or more low. But don't worry, the attendant didn't overfill your crankcase with superfluous oil. He sold you a can of imaginary oil, an empty can that he pretended to pour into your car. He's probably sold that can of imaginary oil to 36 people just today. And imaginary oil has a 100 percent profit margin.
How to prevent this scam. This scam is easy to prevent. (1) Check your oil each morning while on a long trip. Most modern cars don't use much, if any, oil these days, but you will feel more confident if you do check. (2) When confronted with a dipstick that shows your oil is low, say, "Really? Let's wait a minute for the oil to settle in the crankcase. On this car it can take a few minutes. And then I can check it again. No need for you to take your time. Thanks for your help." Note that this little speech precludes the attendant's comeback of "Don't you trust me?" and gives a perfectly good reason for rechecking the oil yourself.
Scam insurance. If you really want to be on top of the game, keep a quart or two of your car's oil in the trunk. If you're told you're a quart low, follow the script above, and add, "Luckily, I have some extra oil with me, so I can put it in if need be."
Useful learning. Learn these things about your car: (1) What type and grade of oil it uses (conventional, synthetic). (2) What viscosity (for example, 10W-30, 0W-20, 5W-20). (3) Where the oil filler tube is and how to take off the cap. (4) Where the dipstick is and how to read the oil level.
Short sticking. You're in the middle of nowhere when you stop for gas. You are delighted that this is a full-service gas station. The helpful attendant washes your windshield and checks your oil. Good thing, too, because you are a quart low. He shows you the dipstick and you can see for yourself that the oil level is at the bottom of the stick. Helpfully, the attendant sells you a quart of oil (at inflated prices--maybe twice what you'd pay anywhere else--but what can you do?) and installs it for free. He shows you the dipstick again and the oil level is right up where it should be. You drive away relieved and thankful that the problem was found and taken care of.
Rewind a minute. This scam is called short sticking because the attendant didn't put the dipstick in all the way, resulting in the appearance that the car was a quart or more low. But don't worry, the attendant didn't overfill your crankcase with superfluous oil. He sold you a can of imaginary oil, an empty can that he pretended to pour into your car. He's probably sold that can of imaginary oil to 36 people just today. And imaginary oil has a 100 percent profit margin.
How to prevent this scam. This scam is easy to prevent. (1) Check your oil each morning while on a long trip. Most modern cars don't use much, if any, oil these days, but you will feel more confident if you do check. (2) When confronted with a dipstick that shows your oil is low, say, "Really? Let's wait a minute for the oil to settle in the crankcase. On this car it can take a few minutes. And then I can check it again. No need for you to take your time. Thanks for your help." Note that this little speech precludes the attendant's comeback of "Don't you trust me?" and gives a perfectly good reason for rechecking the oil yourself.
Scam insurance. If you really want to be on top of the game, keep a quart or two of your car's oil in the trunk. If you're told you're a quart low, follow the script above, and add, "Luckily, I have some extra oil with me, so I can put it in if need be."
Useful learning. Learn these things about your car: (1) What type and grade of oil it uses (conventional, synthetic). (2) What viscosity (for example, 10W-30, 0W-20, 5W-20). (3) Where the oil filler tube is and how to take off the cap. (4) Where the dipstick is and how to read the oil level.
Monday, December 29, 2014
Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs Tips for Purchase
Compact fluorescent light bulbs can save you quite a bit of money on your electric bill, provided you can get the bulbs at a good price. Here are some tips to take into account when you consider replacing your standard incandescent bulbs with fluorescent bulbs.
1. Physical fit. A critical consideration when planning to replace traditional incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) is the physical space available in the light fixture. Many of the newer CFL bulbs are small enough to fit into the same space as the bulbs they replace. Some of the older CFLs were substantially larger and would not fit into closed fixtures.
2. Light output. The amount of light output or brightness of a bulb is measured in lumens. A 60-watt incandescent bulb might put out about 900 lumens, while a CFL of 13 watts might also put out 900 lumens and a 14 watt might deliver 970 lumens. The CFL package will contain a large "60-watt" label (or if the manufacturer is more honest, "60-watt equivalent"). Those wattages are just for reference--if you used a 60-watt incandescent, then this is the bulb for you (at 13 or 14 watts).
3. Color. Light, even what we think of as white light, has a range of whiteness to it, indicated as a color temperature. The standard, soft white light we usually see inside the home, lit with ordinary incandescent bulbs, is 2700 degrees Kelvin. Daylight bulbs, which seek to reproduce the color of bright sunlight, have color temperatures of 5000 to 6500 degrees Kelvin. If you are considering changing your standard incandescents to CFLs, then I suggest you choose 2700-degree bulbs. If you have an at-home office, and you want the relatively harsh, bright light of noonday sun, then choose the bulbs labeled "daylight" at 5000, 5500, or 6500 degrees.
4. Instant On. Early CFLs, when turned on, started out rather dim and required a few minutes to achieve full brightness. This becomes an irritation after awhile. My recommendation is that you make sure the label on the box says "Instant On" or don't buy the bulb. The only exception would be for bulbs you plan to leave on all the time or run from dusk to dawn, such as porch lights.
5. Radio Interference. CFLs tend to generate radio interference. When I pull into my garage, which has two CFLs in the garage door opener, my AM radio program is drowned out by static. Consider this effect when planning your replacements or installations.
6. Cost and Savings. The length of life listed on the box (7 years, 9 years, etc.) is mostly bogus, based on leaving the bulbs on all the time. Turning the light on and off frequently tends to shorten their life. If you make a dozen trips a day to the closet, pantry, bathroom, etc. and each time turn the light on and then off, you might get 3 or 4 years from the CFL. The cost of CFLs varies widely. I've seen essentially the same 60-watt equivalent CFLs on sale for $4.88 for four ($1.22 each ) and at another store $12.98 for five ($2.59 each). Some electric utilities offer CFLs at subsidized rates, so check with your utility and hardware stores.
7. Disposal. Because fluorescent bulbs contain mercury, a toxic metal that must be kept out of groundwater, the bulbs should not be put in ordinary trash after they fail. Fluorescent bulbs should be taken to your nearest hazardous waste facility.
8. Startup Tip. When you install a brand new CFL, turn it on and leave it on for 30 minutes or so. You'll notice that even instant-on bulbs don't fully light the phosphors all the way through the tubing in the bulb. But after burning them in for 30 minutes or so, the bulbs will be ready to start fully bright each time you turn them on in the future (unlike the old, non-instant-on bulbs).
Compact fluorescent bulbs offer some advantages over the incandescent bulbs they replace. You can leave a bulb on as a night light because the wattage is so low. I have a nightlight that uses a 7-watt CFL bulb and it lights the entire room. CFLs last longer that incandescents, so if you have some difficult-to-change areas (such as high ceilings), then you can reduce the hassle with CFLs.
1. Physical fit. A critical consideration when planning to replace traditional incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) is the physical space available in the light fixture. Many of the newer CFL bulbs are small enough to fit into the same space as the bulbs they replace. Some of the older CFLs were substantially larger and would not fit into closed fixtures.
2. Light output. The amount of light output or brightness of a bulb is measured in lumens. A 60-watt incandescent bulb might put out about 900 lumens, while a CFL of 13 watts might also put out 900 lumens and a 14 watt might deliver 970 lumens. The CFL package will contain a large "60-watt" label (or if the manufacturer is more honest, "60-watt equivalent"). Those wattages are just for reference--if you used a 60-watt incandescent, then this is the bulb for you (at 13 or 14 watts).
3. Color. Light, even what we think of as white light, has a range of whiteness to it, indicated as a color temperature. The standard, soft white light we usually see inside the home, lit with ordinary incandescent bulbs, is 2700 degrees Kelvin. Daylight bulbs, which seek to reproduce the color of bright sunlight, have color temperatures of 5000 to 6500 degrees Kelvin. If you are considering changing your standard incandescents to CFLs, then I suggest you choose 2700-degree bulbs. If you have an at-home office, and you want the relatively harsh, bright light of noonday sun, then choose the bulbs labeled "daylight" at 5000, 5500, or 6500 degrees.
4. Instant On. Early CFLs, when turned on, started out rather dim and required a few minutes to achieve full brightness. This becomes an irritation after awhile. My recommendation is that you make sure the label on the box says "Instant On" or don't buy the bulb. The only exception would be for bulbs you plan to leave on all the time or run from dusk to dawn, such as porch lights.
5. Radio Interference. CFLs tend to generate radio interference. When I pull into my garage, which has two CFLs in the garage door opener, my AM radio program is drowned out by static. Consider this effect when planning your replacements or installations.
6. Cost and Savings. The length of life listed on the box (7 years, 9 years, etc.) is mostly bogus, based on leaving the bulbs on all the time. Turning the light on and off frequently tends to shorten their life. If you make a dozen trips a day to the closet, pantry, bathroom, etc. and each time turn the light on and then off, you might get 3 or 4 years from the CFL. The cost of CFLs varies widely. I've seen essentially the same 60-watt equivalent CFLs on sale for $4.88 for four ($1.22 each ) and at another store $12.98 for five ($2.59 each). Some electric utilities offer CFLs at subsidized rates, so check with your utility and hardware stores.
7. Disposal. Because fluorescent bulbs contain mercury, a toxic metal that must be kept out of groundwater, the bulbs should not be put in ordinary trash after they fail. Fluorescent bulbs should be taken to your nearest hazardous waste facility.
8. Startup Tip. When you install a brand new CFL, turn it on and leave it on for 30 minutes or so. You'll notice that even instant-on bulbs don't fully light the phosphors all the way through the tubing in the bulb. But after burning them in for 30 minutes or so, the bulbs will be ready to start fully bright each time you turn them on in the future (unlike the old, non-instant-on bulbs).
Compact fluorescent bulbs offer some advantages over the incandescent bulbs they replace. You can leave a bulb on as a night light because the wattage is so low. I have a nightlight that uses a 7-watt CFL bulb and it lights the entire room. CFLs last longer that incandescents, so if you have some difficult-to-change areas (such as high ceilings), then you can reduce the hassle with CFLs.
Thursday, December 4, 2014
Drywall Screw Bits Review: Milwaukee, Dewalt, Warrior (Harbor Freight), and Grabber
IF you ever drive or try to remove long screws, you are probably familiar with cam out--that slipping of the bit that results when the bit loses grip in the screw head and spins around while the screw doesn't move. You might also be familiar with your Phillips bits breaking or rounding off as you use them. I wanted to see which was the best Phillips #2 bit for driving so-called drywall screws, because those are the screws I use for most projects.
Drill bits tested:
Milwaukee Shockwave Impact Duty #2 Phillips Power Bits, item 48-32-4602 (package of 5 bits 2 inches long).
DeWalt Max Fit #2 Power Bits, item DWA2PH2-5 (package of 5 bits 2 inches long)
Warrior #2 Drill Bits (Harbor Freight 68462) 2 inches long, pack of 10
Grabber #2 reduced Phillips, 1 inch long
I tried driving a three-inch drywall screw into one by three stud lumber. Then I tried backing out the screw.
Here are the results:
Cam out while driving in was moderate with all bits, highest with Milwaukee, lowest with Grabber.
Cam out while extracting was moderate with all bits, highest with Milwaukee, lowest with Grabber.
Durability was highest with DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Grabber, lowest with Warrior.
Conclusion:
For driving or removing drywall screws, I recommend the reduced Phillips #2, such as the one by Grabber. The special smaller head seems to fit better and work better than the regular or full-size #2 Phillips.
The Warrior tips break under load and after some little use. They cost half the price, but the overall performance reflects that.
On the rack at Home Depot or Lowe's, the displays feature many regular #2 Phillips. Look around to find the reduced diameter #2. Or you can buy a box of Grabber drywall screws and get a bit free inside the box.
Drill bits tested:
Milwaukee Shockwave Impact Duty #2 Phillips Power Bits, item 48-32-4602 (package of 5 bits 2 inches long).
DeWalt Max Fit #2 Power Bits, item DWA2PH2-5 (package of 5 bits 2 inches long)
Warrior #2 Drill Bits (Harbor Freight 68462) 2 inches long, pack of 10
Grabber #2 reduced Phillips, 1 inch long
I tried driving a three-inch drywall screw into one by three stud lumber. Then I tried backing out the screw.
Here are the results:
Cam out while driving in was moderate with all bits, highest with Milwaukee, lowest with Grabber.
Cam out while extracting was moderate with all bits, highest with Milwaukee, lowest with Grabber.
Durability was highest with DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Grabber, lowest with Warrior.
Conclusion:
For driving or removing drywall screws, I recommend the reduced Phillips #2, such as the one by Grabber. The special smaller head seems to fit better and work better than the regular or full-size #2 Phillips.
The Warrior tips break under load and after some little use. They cost half the price, but the overall performance reflects that.
On the rack at Home Depot or Lowe's, the displays feature many regular #2 Phillips. Look around to find the reduced diameter #2. Or you can buy a box of Grabber drywall screws and get a bit free inside the box.
Saturday, November 29, 2014
Plumbing Snake Review, Harbor Freight #66262
In keeping with the rule of life that things go wrong at the absolute worst time, the kitchen sink backed up at the house of the hostess for a Thanksgiving celebration and feast right on Thanksgiving day. I brought my home-invented hydro-jet "snake" and shoved it into the pipe. It is connected to a garden hose, so when the sprayer handle is pulled, a jet of water (theoretically) blasts through the clog. I have cleared the clog in my bathroom drain several times with this invention.
Unfortunately, at the Thanksgiving house, either the pipe curved in such a way that the rubber hose snake wouldn't turn properly, or else it hit an impenetrable plug. As a result the hose could be pushed into the drain pipe only a couple of feet and the water from the water jet soon backed out into a tub waiting for it, The clog still remained.
The homeowner had tried using a drain cleaner before, and I tried with two more products, "guaranteed satisfaction," but neither worked a bit, even after waiting over night.
So, on my way back to the house, I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up a rotating snake, described by HF as "25-foot drain cleaner with drill attachment." HF part number 66262. At the house, the water was still standing in the sink, showing that water was not even slowly seeping down the drain--the plug was solid.
I removed the P-trap and ran the snake into the pipe until it hit a blockage. I then connected my power drill and slowly rotated the snake. Right away, the snake made progress and moved into the pipe. I fed another six or eight inches of snake, rotated again, fed snake, rotated, and so on. When I had fed about 15 feet of snake into the drain pipe, I pulled it all back out. There was no big hairball or other massive item on the auger, just a plug of black goo.I reconnected the P-trap and turned on the hot water, slowly. It kept draining, no back up. So I turned on the hot water full flow and let it run for a long time.
Ten minutes of auguring beat a couple of hours of trying to water blast away the plug.
Next day, I pulled out all 25 feet of the snake, washed it thoroughly and sprayed WD-40 all along the length. I took apart the plastic hosing and wiped it clean and dry before reassembly.
Note:
Unfortunately, at the Thanksgiving house, either the pipe curved in such a way that the rubber hose snake wouldn't turn properly, or else it hit an impenetrable plug. As a result the hose could be pushed into the drain pipe only a couple of feet and the water from the water jet soon backed out into a tub waiting for it, The clog still remained.
The homeowner had tried using a drain cleaner before, and I tried with two more products, "guaranteed satisfaction," but neither worked a bit, even after waiting over night.
So, on my way back to the house, I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up a rotating snake, described by HF as "25-foot drain cleaner with drill attachment." HF part number 66262. At the house, the water was still standing in the sink, showing that water was not even slowly seeping down the drain--the plug was solid.
I removed the P-trap and ran the snake into the pipe until it hit a blockage. I then connected my power drill and slowly rotated the snake. Right away, the snake made progress and moved into the pipe. I fed another six or eight inches of snake, rotated again, fed snake, rotated, and so on. When I had fed about 15 feet of snake into the drain pipe, I pulled it all back out. There was no big hairball or other massive item on the auger, just a plug of black goo.I reconnected the P-trap and turned on the hot water, slowly. It kept draining, no back up. So I turned on the hot water full flow and let it run for a long time.
Ten minutes of auguring beat a couple of hours of trying to water blast away the plug.
Next day, I pulled out all 25 feet of the snake, washed it thoroughly and sprayed WD-40 all along the length. I took apart the plastic hosing and wiped it clean and dry before reassembly.
Note:
- there are plastic pins to align when you put the halves back together..
- the snake is not attached to the housing, so it will come out all the way.
Conclusion: This plumbing snake worked excellently when connected to my drill, allowing me to rotate the housing and thereby the snake itself. The rotation gets the head of the snake past curves and turns and allows it to dig into whatever is blocking the drain. If you have a drill driver, you should certainly have one of these Plumbing Snakes. (You can use the unit manually by spinning the unit with the handle molded into it.)
Cons:
- If you drop the drain snake from even three or four feed, the plastic housing will likely break.
- The snake bends rather easily.
- The snake rusts quickly, so have some WD-40 or other oil spray to clean up the snake after each use.
Important Instructions:
- Run the drill slowly. A fast drill causes damage.
- Feed about 6 to 8 inches of snake at a time. Too much snake outside its drum home, and especially too fast a run causes the snake to wrap all over itself and be ruined.
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